Jackstays and Lifelines

Jackstays and Lifelines

What are Jackstays?

Jackstays lay along the deck for you to clip onto with your harness safety line, also known as a safety tether.

Jackstays can be made from rope, wire or webbing.

The Jimmy Green Marine Rigging Team...

What are Jackstays?

Jackstays lay along the deck for you to clip onto with your harness safety line, also known as a safety tether.

Jackstays can be made from rope, wire or webbing.

The Jimmy Green Marine Rigging Team produce Custom Made Jackstays and Lifelines, made to measure in webbing or stainless steel wire. Jimmy Green Webbing Jackstays are produced in house by the Jimmy Green Sewing Team on a modern, automatic profile, industrial machine using the same stitch pattern as EN1095 safety lines so you can rely on their strength and durability.

High tenacity 25mm polyester webbing is ideal for webbing jackstays:

  • MBL 2000kg, available in Blue, Red, Yellow and Black
  • MBL 3000kg, available in White

The 25mm webbing will fit comfortably onto the pin of our Extra Wide Stainless Steel Shackles.

Custom Build Instructions

Jackstays or Lifelines

The reasoning behind Webbing

Webbing lies flat so is less obtrusive and is kinder to your deck.
Wire and rope may tend to move or roll under your feet.
Wire can be PVC coated to prevent any damage to your deck but this increases the diameter and therefore exacerbates the 'roll' problem.
Rope will need to be either more substantial in diameter or relatively 'high tech' in order to achieve the same breaking strain.

Strength Comparison

4mm 1 x 19 stainless steel wire, MBL = 1400kg
5mm 1 x 19 stainless steel wire, MBL 2190kg
High Tenacity Polyester Jackstay Webbing, MBL = 2100kg or 3000kg
The majority of jackstays produced are from the 2100kg webbing but we also supply stronger webbing, MBL 3000kg
N.B. All wire/rope splicing and sewing marginally reduces the breaking strain of the finished product.

Fitting Considerations

  1. Safe Attachment - It is important to be able to clip on to the jackstay line while you are in the cockpit and still be able to venture as far forward (and aft) as possible without having to detach yourself. 
    This means that the jackstay line needs to 'overlap' the cockpit domain (it should at least run by the outside of the coaming so you can reach it from inside the cockpit) It also needs to negotiate a path around or over the natural obstacles such as hatches, lower shrouds, grab rails, cleats, windlasses, bollards etc. so that the person clipped on to the jackstay line has a clear path to the forestay/pulpit (or pushpit)

  2. Man Overboard Prevention - the path forward should be as near the centre line as practicable 
    e.g. inside shrouds, over but commonly around the curve of the coachroof.
    Clipping on to a jackstay that is too near the guardrail may result in you dangling in the water, especially if you are outside the leeward rail with the yacht heeled going upwind.

N.B. The MAIB SAFETY BULLETIN 1/2018 has highlighted the importance of routing any jackstay or lifeline in such a way as to minimise the chances of a hook getting caught underneath any deck fitting and mooring cleats in particular.

"SAFETY LESSON To prevent the strength of a safety harness tether becoming compromised in-service due to lateral loading on the tether hook, the method used to anchor the end of the tether to the vessel should be arranged to ensure that the tether hook cannot become entangled with deck fttings or other equipment"

Measuring your Jackstays

Both wire and webbing jackstays should be fitted so that there is a degree of lift in the centre of the line before any significant load is applied.
The height of the lift should be

  1. proportional to the overall length of the jackstay
  2. dependent on the stretch of the jackstay

Webbing Jackstays should be fitted taut to prevent too much slack when a body weight load is applied.
Wire that is fitted too tight may cause excessive load on the end fittings when under load, due to a 'bowsing' effect.
A tight wire jackstay may also make it difficult to get the safety hook under the wire.

The Jimmy Green Sewing Team Finished Length Process for Webbing

Webbing has a degree of stretch even at low load.

  1. Stitch one end
  2. Connect the stitched end to a shackle with a large, robust, measuring tape attached, lay the webbing out taut but not stretched along the floor/trough
  3. Identify and mark the turning point for the sewn loop at the other end of the webbing
  4. Complete the second stitched loop
  5. Check the finished length against your order

The website will accept a length to 3 decimal points. However, this is not practicable for webbing.
The Jimmy Green Sewing Team can produce jackstay lengths to the nearest centimetre i.e. to two decimal points.
However, because webbing has a degree of stretch at relatively low load, Jimmy Green Marine can only accept responsibility for the final measurement as follows:
< 5 metres accuracy overall to the nearest 25mm.
> 5 metres accuracy overall to 0.5% e.g. 6m metres = 30mm, 8 metres = 40mm, 10 metres = 50mm

Selecting your fixing points

Jackstay strong points should be selected according to the principles listed above.
if there are no suitable fixing points in the right position you may need to fit our JACKSTAY U BOLTS

Sewn End Options

Standard Sewn Loops for attaching to shackles - the shackle is wide enough for the webbing to fit on the shackle pin.


Standard Sewn Loops with extra wide shackle included.

Twisted Sewn Loops - These are for passing the other end around e.g. a stanchion base and back through the twisted loop. This creates a 'cow hitch' finish that means the loop will sit comfortably on the deck fitting. You will need to estimate the length required to go around the deck fitting</>

Sewn Lanyard Loops - These are bigger loops to allow for multiple reeving of the lanyard.

Lanyard on Sewn Loops - These are bigger loops with 2 metre spliced lanyard included

Sewn Loops with stainless steel ring - lanyards can be spliced onto the ring.

Sewn Loops with stainless steel triangle - lanyards can be spliced onto the triangle.


Extra wide shackles make a strong and secure fastening at one end but it may be difficult to achieve the right degree of tension with shackles at both ends.

Lanyards at one end make the measuring, tensioning and fitting more straightforward.

Subtract approximately 200mm - 300mm from the overall length to facilitate the gap filled by the lanyard.