Currency: GBP

Subtotal £0.00
Shipping £0.00
VAT included in total (£0.00)
Total £0.00
Checkout
Menu

How to Install a Windlass

07 Oct 2024

How to Install a Windlass

The windlass you choose will depend on your boat’s length, displacement and windage, plus the combined weight of your anchor and anchor rode. Our Windlass Selection Guide is very helpful for making your decision.

Once you’ve made your choice, you need to think about fitting the windlass on the boat. A professional installation is recommended, but DIY fitting is eminently feasible if you have a little electrical and mechanical know-how. Please keep in mind that if you doubt any aspect of the installation, it’s best to seek advice.  

There are a couple of things that need to be considered pre-installation:  

If possible, aim to position the windlass directly above the deepest part of the chain locker.  

The anchor roller that will feed your windlass should be as closely aligned to the centreline as possible. This is usually easy on a powerboat. However, conflict with headstays and other fittings must be considered on a sailing yacht.  

Once you’ve selected a good spot for the windlass on the foredeck, check the lead from the bow roller to where the windlass gypsy (chain wheel) will be. Ideally, it should be within five degrees of a straight line, horizontally, and within 10 degrees vertically.   

The anchor roller should be mounted far enough forward to stop the anchor knocking against the hull on its way up, and when the anchor is in its stowed position.  

There must be enough vertical room between the deck and the headsail furling drum to allow the anchor to come over the roller and into its stowage position without whacking it.

Windlass Chain and Anchor Set UP

Installation: 

Unless the foredeck is reinforced, the windlass will need a heavy-duty backing plate on the underside of the deck, made of metal or marine plywood, to cope with the load.  

If the deck is curved rather than flat, shims will have to be made; and if the deck is cored (with balsa or foam, for instance), the interior will need to be reinforced with epoxy and filler so it doesn’t crush when the windlass fixing bolts are tightened up.   

A vertical drop into the chain locker is essential, so avoid any bends or angles when installing the chain pipe. 

Be sure to use sealant under the base of the windlass and on all installation holes to stop water from penetrating the deck.

Power and Electrical Aspects to Consider

Windlasses use a lot of power, and you will need to think about getting that power up to the bow.  

Boat owners frequently used to install an additional battery next to the windlass, but these days most power supplies for windlasses are run from the existing service battery bank further aft.  

The more powerful the windlass is, and the greater the distance from the batteries to the windlass, the larger the supply cables need to be. You should be able to find the required cable size for the given windlass power and cable distance in the windlass manual.

Windlass Electrical Components

Nearly all windlasses use control boxes (also known as contactors or solenoid switches). These are sometimes supplied with the windlass but often need to be bought separately. A solenoid is essentially a low-current electric switch for a high-current circuit. The low-current wiring runs from the control box to the control panel, foot switch or remote control (see below).  

For the high-current windlass circuit, you’ll need a rated circuit breaker - typically mounted by the control box or back in the battery compartment. Note that if you’re changing from one electric windlass to a more powerful version, you might need to upgrade the circuit breaker and the wiring. 

The next decision to make is where you'll operate the windlass from. You may prefer a deck-mounted foot switch near the windlass or a switch in the cockpit or wheelhouse. Alternatively, you could have a wired remote that plugs into the foredeck or a wireless remote that communicates with a base unit by the control box.  

Whatever wiring and control system you choose, make sure all the connections are solid and waterproof - use heat-shrink tubing and a proper crimping tool. All wiring must be well mounted throughout to minimise movement when the boat pitches and rolls. 

If you are exploring installing a windlass and would like additional guidance ahead of purchasing from our Windlass Selection, feel free to give the Jimmy Green Team a shout. We'll be happy to guide you toward an optimal match for your needs.

Windlass Accessories and Spares

Windlass Guides and Information

Related products



Lewmar V1 Vertical Windlass

Lewmar V2 Vertical Windlass

£1,956.00 -4%

£1,877.76

Lofrans Tigres

Lofrans Tigres Horizontal Windlass

£1,400.00 -7%

£1,302.00

Maxwell RC8 Vertical Windlass

Maxwell RC8 Vertical Windlass

£1,243.00 -5%

£1,180.85

Quick Prince DP1 Vertical Windlass

Quick Prince DP1 Vertical Windlass

£875.00 -4%

£840.00


Lofrans Touch Panel Control
View +

Lewmar Windlass Contactors
Author: Team Jimmy

You May Also Like

The Jimmy Green Guide to the Best Anchor Ropes

10 Jun 2020

The best ropes for anchoring a motorboat or sailing yacht are manufactured from Nylon (Polyamide) or Polyester because...

Read More

The Decision-Making Checklist for Buying Anchor...

14 May 2021

Is it time to replace your anchor chain?

Read More

Anchor Snubbing

01 Jul 2024

Electric windlasses are now commonly fitted on cruising yachts from the outset and they are also proving to be a...

Read More